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Hi Eric,
For package selection/ removal, I followed the guidelines on this link: https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/additional-software/saving_space
Then started building images on this image builder page: https://firmware-selector.openwrt.org/
Then under INSTALLED PACKAGES i made it work with the following selection/ removal of packages:
base-files ca-bundle dnsmasq dropbear firewall4 fstools kmod-gpio-button-hotplug kmod-leds-gpio kmod-mt7603 kmod-nft-offload libc libgcc libustream-mbedtls logd mtd netifd nftables odhcp6c odhcpd-ipv6only opkg ppp ppp-mod-pppoe swconfig uci uclient-fetch urandom-seed urngd wpad-basic-mbedtls kmod-mt7615e kmod-mt7663-firmware-ap kmod-usb2 kmod-usb-ohci kmod-usb-ledtrig-usbport -ppp -ppp-mod-pppoe -ip6tables -odhcp6c -kmod-ipv6 -kmod-ip6tables -odhcpd-ipv6only -odhcpd -iptables uhttpd uhttpd-mod-ubus libiwinfo-lua luci-base luci-app-firewall luci-mod-admin-full luci-theme-bootstrap luci-proto-relay -opkg
The above can be copied directly into the image builder and should work with both, 902AC V3 or 902AC V4 as the first thing one selects is the model of the router/ AP. The rest is the same.
This removes the all IPV6 related packages, DHCP server, opkg, adds basic luci interface and the relayd packages.
<p style=“text-align: left;“>Hi Eric,</p>
This is unbelievable, I was away from the forum for 2 days and it turns out we have been working on the same thing! I just managed to make an optimised openwrt image for the 902as V4. I used the online image builder and it took me 7 or 8 retries until it worked. Best part is that it uses less resources and has the relayd package integrated. It’s been working for 6 hours straight without a glitch! If there is a way to share slightly larger files on the forum I’d be more than happy to upload it. About to go and listen to it!Cheers,
B.
Hi Eric,
I’m jealous that you can get those results with the Fritz alone. And fully agree, I also do not believe the access point improves sound (other then maybe radiation onto the equipment). It only helps setting up a clean channel in a space with lots of interference. Actually, now that I know a bit better how it works, I think two 902ac units (one as access point and one as a client) with openwrt and external antennas set on a narrow 5ghz channel could most probably be a great lower cost solution to areas with lots of interference.
Cheers,
Bosko
Hi everyone,
Here are the printscreens of my Aruba setup. It could be a good starting point.
Cheers,
Bosko
Hi Eric,
Your post for the external antenna was also the inspiration for my setup. I’m using the same setup but with a different antenna.
Kr,
B.
Hi Rghanbari,
Here are some photos of the antenna connector on the 902ac. Looking at the back of the 902ac, the centre of the antenna connector is exactly 15mm from the top and 30mm from the left outer edges. The hole does not have to be more than 4mm in diameter. Just beware that the hirose connector sticks out more than a centimeter.
Hi Rghanbari,
Congratulations on the Aruba! I’m a bit busy today, but will share the exact location of the hirose connector and some printscreens of my Aruba setup over the next few days.
Cheers,
B.
Hi Basillus,
The link works for me. Thank you for sharing. I will probably get one of these later. Please be aware that when using a directional antenna on the 902ac a change of a few degrees can change the signal up to 10 dB, or make the orientation such that the antenna becomes sensitive to room activity. For example, if someone walks through the room, you might get a change in signal reflections and this can impact the retries big time. It is exactly for this reason I’m using my daughter’s old Lego, so I can build the base where I can change the angle of the Aruba as well as of the directional antenna to get the most stable signal between the two. I tried wall mounting, but I always get better results when the Aruba is not parallel to walls. Keep in mind that Aruba has the strongest signal at 30 degrees down from horizontal and my test proved this angle does work the best….in my case it is tilted around 30 degrees down and around 3 to 5 degrees in the horizontal plane. For me, setting up the directional antenna and getting good results was a very long and a frustrating process. I never tried it, but getting an omnidirectional antenna could also work and might be easier to dial in. I did a setup with two directional antennas using their t-adapter. It did make the signal stronger by about 3db but it was also less stable. On the other hand, this same dual antenna setup could work when using 2 omnidirectional antennas. Here is the link to this duomax adapter where you basically connect two identical antennas to a single pigtail cable. https://frixtender.de/shop/frixtender-duomax-sets/
Cheers,
B.
Hi Rghanbari,
It is the PS4 directional antenna with the hirose pigtail. Here is the link to the antenna: https://frixtender.de/produkt/frixtender-p4-schwarz-2/
Hi Eric,
I’m case you meant Bosko, then yes, I use an external directional antenna for the 902ac. It gives around a 10db boost. Actually, I am testing a new orientation and the 902ac antenna power is set to zero dB.
Hi Basillus,
Thank you for sharing. Interesting to see that he came to the same conclusion about the 5 GHz frequency with a narrow channel as the best option! Though from a different perspective. For me it was the option with least interference and least retries. It’s a nice benefit to know it is the option with least impact on all the components. Will check the firmware he is using. Actually, now I’m debating whether to get the Aruba 324 (sister model with external antennas) and do a test with a directional antenna on both the 324 and the 902ac to reduce the interference from the surrounding and to the equipment even further.
Cheers,
B.
